Everyday Wines: Athesia Lagrein

Over a recent dinner out with colleagues the topic invariably turned to which wine to order. Everyone has a different relationship with vino, and a quick poll demonstrated the relative disparity of what is considered a low-commitment versus a special-occasion wine.

Such was the inspiration to start featuring a few favorite bottles that I consider to be "everyday wine" - a selection of go-to wines that represents a positive price-to-pleasure ratio. My criteria are 1) enjoyable both at home or suitable to take to a gathering; 2) pleasant with or without food, and 3) guilt-free if you were to open the bottle and only drink half – as if that ever happens, but for the sake of argument...

Preamble aside, that sums up an excellent Lagrein from a producer called Athesia in Trentino, Italy. At $10.99 a bottle it's a veritable bargain for everyday enjoyment, without depleting the coffers of Nova Clutch cellars - much as I wish it were full of only the likes of Quintarelli, Bea and Gravner.

Lagrein ("la-grINE") is an obscure and wonderfully rustic varietal rumoured to be a relative of Syrah. Grown in the Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol region, this bold, full-bodied red is berry-forward without being too fruity, and balanced so nicely with lengthy tannins. There’s a hint of violet, a touch of gravel. It’s also gorgeous in the glass, with an inky purple hue that Italians refer to as “scuro.”

Artesia’s Lagrein made an appearance the other evening, when chilly weather called for grilled skirt steak, roasted heirloom carrots and purple cauliflower mash with Parmigiano-Reggiano. Pure comfort food to mitigate the culinary dilemma now that tomatoes are no longer in season - about which Natasha and I are still in denial. At least a few glasses of this lovely Lagrein helped ease the drama.

I open this one up for commentary - what do you consider an everyday wine?

Wine: 2004 Athesia Lagrein, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italia
Varietal: 100% Lagrein
Recommended Pairings: Roasted pork chops with rosemary; roasted autumn vegetables such as Romanesco or parsnips; sautéed Swiss chard; Piave vecchio, Montasio or other hard cheeses

Comments

I love the Ridge Three Valleys for an everyday wine, but only when I get it on sale at Astor. They regularly have it on sale for $15 a bottle.

[eric]

well, well, long time no wine review?! and, even longer time since i've seen your excited face shopping for vino. you would be excited about the center and what will soon be happening upstairs so let me know if you want the tour. as for table wine, one could make an argument for the cantina rotaliana di mezzolombardo teroldego. we were tasting the new '05 tonight, which just arrived yesterday, and i forgot how light it was while still having quite a bit going on. for a few dollars more, there's also the produttori del barbaresco langhe nebbiolo. as you know, amazing. i also brought home a washington state lemberger, i know i know, new world, the other night which was surprisingly delicious. anyway, say hi sometime...

[Brooklyn Bridge]

Sounds like a wonderful way to celebrate Fall as we acclimate to the cooler weather and fight the depression of daylight savings time.

[thérèse]

@ brooklyn bridge: agreed, 'tis truly the season to embrace the harvest - i was at the cadman plaza farmers' market today. stocked up on romanesco to roast, along with brussels sprouts with pancetta and lemon. buon appetito!

@ eric: hey there! i am desperate for a stock-up at astor – will stop by soon. very good call on the teroldego [or “t” as they call it in trentino]; that deserves an entry soon. just back from drinking and dining my way through puglia and basilicata, hence the hiatus, but blog entries to follow. hope all’s well!