Nova Clutch

Albam Carpenter Shirt

Our friend Tommy told me about Albam sometime last year & I finally got round to ordering some pieces from them a few weeks ago. A British company with a shop on Beak Street in London, their philosophy is to make simple clothes that can be worn everyday using great fabrics, whilst also striving to be affordable. Producing as much as they can in the UK, with shirts being made in Portugal & some of the fine knitwear in Italy. Obviously they have been approached by many other retailers wanting to sell their product but have so far stood firm as this would affect the retail price greatly.
I picked up 5 pieces, this black & white check shirt being my favorite. Made in Portugal from 100% cotton, the shirt has 2 chest pockets, reinforced elbows, a placket that runs half way down the front with contrasting white buttons & the collars are also a really nice crisp shape.

*If you fill out their questionnaire, they'll give you 20% off the first order, which is what tipped me over the edge.

The Soul Stylists

My Ipod broke a little while ago, so while it was in the garage being fixed I decided to take up reading........something i haven't done since maybe 1998.
My journey to work changed for the better.

This book explores the relationship that exists between American black music & British working class style, tracing a mod tradition that began in Soho, London just after the second world war & continues to this day.

"From Mod to Casual, from Skinhead to Northern Souler, The Soul Stylists are an eclectic family joined together by a tradition of secrecy, exclusivity & absolute difference to the outside world. They pass unnoticed because soul stylists always shun the spotlight.
To them attention to detail is far more important than attention seeking"

For me this was a pretty inspiring read, the whole book is made up of quotes from people who were actually around during these times, wearing the clothes & listening to the music from the early 50's  onward.

Paul Smith Check Shirt

I haven't worn any Paul Smith clothing in 3 or 4 years but happened to pick this check shirt up a few weeks ago. Was really impressed by the colorway & the fit - tailored yet relaxed.
This piece is in a medium weight cream cotton with a red & green check, the buttons are off white & slightly oversized & most interestingly, the shirt is loaded with subtle details.

F-Troupe Saddle Shoes at Opening Ceremony in SoHo

In a moment of desperation for relaxation, brainless activity and the remote possibility for unplanned enjoyment, Natasha and I headed out late Sunday morning for a walk across the Manhattan Bridge to that seldom explored island across the East River. After a obtaining some nourishment and a caffeine boost at Brown, we headed nowhere and everywhere with our ultimate destination being Stefan's place to catch up on the last two Tivo'ed LOST episodes. All along, and not shared with Natasha, I was on a vision quest for some new spring footwear. A beautiful pair of trainer shoes for $345 was tempting, but out of the question considering that I would be submitting our taxes on Monday. A small shop in Chinatown offering Paul Smith rip-offs just didn't seem right considering the $125 price tag for some less and considered craftsmanship. Even a trip to Bloomingdales SoHo basement for a pee and a quick look at their footwear offering found that it was all too easy to walk away from a Joey Bagofdonuts looking white Stan Smiths from Adidas and a pair of Asics Tiger white three-quarters that were so detailed and right that I felt the designers of the 1958 Ford Edsel finally had their second go.

Tired and lacking the caffeine buzz that had powered me earlier in the day, Natasha pushed me on to "one last stop", Opening Ceremony on 35 Howard Street. Having never been impressed with their overpriced selection of Top Shop contraband or the workingman's Red Wings for $225 and up, I was bowled over to find on a lower out of the way shelf these amazing F-Troupe canvas and suede saddle shoe-like trainers for $100. Beautifully designed and proportioned these babies take their cues from traditional saddle and boat shoes, but cut a shape and form that is nothing but modern and owned by F-Troupe. Understated details such as the waxed laces and large weave natural canvas pair will with the white suede and beautifully embossed rubber bottoms. Clean stitching and not a drop of sloppy gluing where the canvas meets the rubber tells me the people at F-Troupe care about the execution as much as the idea. No wonder I took home the last of these Spring 2008 trophies for shopping fortitude and patience.

A bag for Gina from Blueberi

I love Blueberi. I love everything in there. I can't really walk past, because then I might go in, and I might buy something. I have the same problem with Noisette, although M, who lives right near there, doesn't have the same affliction. In fact I don't think she's ever even been in.

Michele and I got Gina this beautiful little bag from Blueberi the other day. It's made with patent yellow quilted leather and lined with cotton with black and white polka dots. I also tried this on in there the other day. Sigh. Perhaps I should just not leave the house.

Snow Day! Valenkisrus

A snow day means that Michael will probably get stuck at the Annual Conference of the College Art Association, but that's ok because I'm happy playing in the snow in my beige Valenkisrus. I can't tell you where to get a pair as the website, www.valenkisrus.com seems to be down. They must be inundated with orders on a day like this!

Image via Swissmiss

Japanese Kanji Work Gloves

After successfully making it out of the 80's and 90's without branding myself with some sketchily translated form of calligraphy on the back of my milky neck or delicately inked onto my ankle, this winter I have donned a far a less permanent, yet equally foolish option. Unlike the questionable tattoos designed to ward off bad spirits and alert people to the fact that the wearer is an insecure and unimaginative round eyed devil that believes their "tat" is an edgy addition to their business casual persona, my new Kanji emblazoned Japanese working gloves unapologetically reek of jackass.

Made and purchased in Japan, these lovely additions to my winter attire can easily be worn face up or face down depending on how foolish or brave I am feeling. Although they are clearly labeled "Japanese Kanji", I have not had the inclination to have them properly translated. Until I do, I will be certain not to wave to anyone I suspect of reading Kanji for fear of insulting their mother, or requesting them to cut my hands off.

Barbour Cardigan

My friend Fulton gave me this cardigan on my birthday late last year, it's nice when someone knows you well enough to be able to buy you such a thing. Established in 1894, Barbour is a 4th generation family owned British company which is today available in 29 countries and just like the great U.S brand Filson, you'll find Barbour clothing in contemporary clothing stores as well as traditional mens outfitters and outdoor pursuits stores. It's a universal brand in many ways, especially when you notice the cross section of people wearing it.

   

K & T H MFG Co. Railroad Jacket

Armed with a bottle of wine, the world wide web & google's translation tool, I somehow managed to order this Railroaders Jacket from Japan.
I'd actually forgotten that I'd ordered it until I received an email back from a guy called Takashi Tateno, asking me what size I wanted & telling me how to pay. He also told me how long it would take him to make it (1 month) & when it would arrive in NY - December 20th 2007, which it did.......I'd like to lodge an official complaint for over efficiency.
This is an exact replica of a railroad jacket originally manufactured in 1904 by a company called "Headlight Overalls" out of Detroit. That's about all the history I can make out from the gargled, translated text. Anyhow, the fabric is a soft unwashed cotton with a white dotted pinstripe, all the metal buttons are removable & embossed with the manufacturers name, the words 'Union Made' are also embossed on the buttons, I think this is very common on early American workwear.

Pokit Classic Capsule Bag

Pokit are a UK based design company, they make accessories such as bags, wallets & belts as well as custom suits & shoes, of which I have a pair on the way.
This bag was inspired by Buckminster Fuller's geodesic domes – I used to know all about those before I got old & jaded.
The outer is in Khaki canvas & bridle leather, with fittings in solid brass & nickel.
The pleats & the piping on the lid of the bag allow it to have a 3D shape as do the leather reinforcements on the base. There are also many internal pockets which have come
in very handy indeed.

Its a piece of product design rather than fashion design if that makes sense. At first glance the bag looks quite traditional but when you give it a second look its like nothing else out there on the market - that’s what I like about it most.

S.N.S. Herning 'Stark' Cardigan

S.N.S. is a traditional knitwear manufacturer based in central Jutland, Denmark.
In 1931, Søren Skyt devised a unique technique involving temperature ‘bubbles’ to insulate local fishermen from the harsh elements whilst at work. Today, the knits are still manufactured in the same way on the same machines. Each piece is individually signed by one of the three craftsmen responsible for making it - either Erik 69, Bjarne 71, and Holger 67 yrs old. This particular wool cardigan is known as ‘Stark’  & I have it in a petrol blue colorway. Ive been told I’ll have this sweater forever & I'll be passing it on to future family. So far Ive been wearing it everyday for a month straight, Ive been too lazy to buy a winter jacket this year so have been wearing this sweater under a light coat everyday, & its kept me snug & warm through some pretty cold times recently.

A shirt from Lord Willy's

I've turned into a real internet buyer. I used to be all about the experience, but the miser in me (admit it, there's one in all of you) knows that I can always get something cheaper on the internet. Of course, this is fine for books and the like, but when it comes to something important, you have to go and speak to the experts.

I have been lusting over a couple of two-wheeled items that would nullify one another if I got them both. One being the quite obvious Vespa (what European living in New York is complete without one?) and the other is the Brompton. I am not sure why I would need one if I had the other, but the truth is, I have neither. But when I buy either one of them it will be in a store, to talk to the experts, to see for myself. That is why I also haven't bought my tiny dream on eBay. I need to go and see it in the flesh.

This was absolutely confirmed by our trip to Lord Willy's on Christopher Street yesterday. I had passed their store on Mott Street a few times, but I hadn't gone in. I thought it was an English store that English people didn't actually go in to. But when I went in on a whim yesterday and saw the quality of the shirts, I promptly called Michael and told him I would sit around the corner and have a cup of tea while I waited for him to get there. Was it worth him coming over? I don't like to sit around and wait for anything, so it was quite surprising that I suggested it.

Fabric made in England explains the priceyness of it all, that and suits and blazers handmade in New York. Beautiful details that don't scream "I'm a detail", gorgeous shirt colors (gunmetal, navy, a couple of surprisingly appealing black and white ginghams) and luscious silk ties. The pièces de résistance are definitely the blazers here. Gorgeously cut, beautifully lined, Michael nearly fainted when he tried on two of them, big strapping lad that he is. Each style of blazer has only six iterations, so it's unlikely you will see someone else wearing one. Our favorite was a dark grey wool pinstripe with red stitching, but a chocolate colored corduroy certainly caught our attention.

We left the store with only one shirt, pictured here. It's taken on a little more of a purply tinge in the Northern light we have over in our part of Brooklyn, but the true color is a muted, dusty pink, with brown stitching and buttons. It has a spread collar, ideal for a full Windsor knot, and made the bespoke shirt Michael was wearing look like a Brooks Brothers hand-me-down. Coupled with the beauty of these pieces was the approachable and friendly Alex Wilcox who runs the store on Christopher. It's people like him that mean that it's always better to deal with a person. Thanks for the impeccable service, Mr Wilcox, we will certainly be back for one of those blazers.

Peter Beaton in Nantucket

Now I'm not one of those preppy types, well not in the way that you may understand the term. Both Sweetu and I tend to appreciate preppiness in an understated English way. We go for a little Maragret Howell, Church's and Labour and Wait.

Going up to Nantucket the other week, I saw a lot of preppy types. Actually I was kind of shocked by it. Never had I seen so many blonde-haired, checkered-pants-wearing people in one place, but then, I never go to the Upper East Side. I obviously need to get out more.

Some of these blonde-haired people went into Peter Beaton, where I dutifully followed. I was pleasantly surprised. Bright orange, pink and brown umbrellas with contrasting undersides and beautifully crafted wooden handles. Gorgeous navy blue one-piece bathing suits for infants. And the best, rough-hewn rubber wellies that seem raw and almost unfinished. Perhaps my preppy fix will be from here, and not from the old tweeds of the homeland.

Filson Mackinaw Cruiser

My Friend Frederick gave me this Filson Jacket a while ago. It was a size too small for him, so instead of sending it back he passed it on to me. It's made from 100% Virgin Wool, thus its really warm.
Filson is another old American company, over a hundred years old and these clothes were originally made for hunters and outdoor workers and they still are, however you'll also see people like me wearing them too. Contemporary clothing stores such as Steven Alan, Hollander & Lexer and Oi Polloi also carry various pieces from the range.
This Light Grey color is unavailable now so it makes my jacket even more special.

Woolen Mills by Woolrich

Headed up to Bergdorf Goodman on Saturday (of all days...) I'm a recluse at the best of times, so it was a bit of a shock to be part of civilization for real. There was even a huge line outside the Apple store, with a bouncer & a strict 1 out 1 in policy...I think I'll go online when I get home instead.
Back to Bergdorf...I'd taken my self out of my comfort zone (sitting at home with a bottle of wine and thinking about leaving the house) and traveled up to take a look at the A/W 2007 Woolrich Woolen Mills Collection - Bergdorf is the sole outlet in the USA. Funny that, when you consider that Woolrich is Americas oldest clothing company, 177 years old in fact. Well, the "Woolen Mills by Woolrich" collection is designed by Daiki Suzuki of "Engineered Garments" so is limited in numbers and Italian made. The Italians are crazy about Woolrich in general, so this particular collaboration has gone down a treat and was originally only available across Italy and selected European stores. Couldn't leave empty-handed so picked up this black cotton shirt. It has some really nice details such as the plaid pattern on the inside and the wing tip collars.

Folio Bag from Labour and Wait

Sometimes there are those things that you don't want to tell anyone about (let along blog) because you want to keep it a secret, you don't want anyone else to know about it. If you tell people, soon the press would have their hands on it and it will be ruined forever. I felt that way about this but it was outed anyway.

Sweetu, Karen and I felt this way about Labour and Wait for a long time. Labour and Wait is the kind of shop that you feel only you know about, even though it is just a stone's throw from London's famous Brick Lane, the environs for the likes of Gilbert and George. Why did we think that we were the only ones that fell in love with their bristle brushes and enamel milk pots?

Because we weren't. What did Timeout London vote as the best shop in London last year? Not DSM, or Smythson, nor Steinberg and Tolkien. No, their favorite shop was our favorite shop. Shock that a) we actually agreed with the press and b) our beloved shop was also beloved to many, many others led to confusion. On the one hand, we were so pleased that the little shop that could, did, but on the other...well, people would go to it! The tiny shop would be inundated with not passersby, but destinationists that read about it in a magazine. That's success for you.

I have a few things from Labour and Wait (which I will dutifully post in good time) and have been prevented by Michael from bringing back a broom from there from London to New York. But what I am lusting after right now is this folio bag. It looks like it would perfectly enclose a MacBook Pro and seem like you were going fishing at the same time. A better choice than the Jack Spade that Michael keeps toting around, mainly because you won't see 10 other people carrying it down Mercer Street when you're going for a meeting. Sigh, I wish London's favorite shop were over here...

MHL by Margaret Howell, Gingham Shirt

This gingham shirt has been keeping me looking smart and cool all summer long. I've been a big fan of Margaret Howell for some time now and own quite a few pieces. The MHL collection is her diffusion line, which is priced pretty reasonably compared to her name line. The fit of this line comes up a little bigger than regular sizing as the collection leans towards a work-wear inspired aesthetic. I got this shirt in an XS, however it is a very relaxed fit.
You can read about Margaret Howell here as I don't really feel worthy enough to say any more.

People Tree for Topshop

I would rather not perpetuate the view that while Michael mulls upon about what art we go to, I spend most of the time thinking about what food I am going to put in my mouth and what I am going to wear while we doing it. But I'm going to anyway.

To the Richard Serra exhibition I wore my new favorite dress by People Tree for Topshop. It's cotton, organic and sustainable and all that malarky, but look, it has poppers! Five at the front and one at the back, to be exact, and the idea is that you can customize your clothing with how you use the poppers. It's, like, you know, way cool. I'm wearing it, pretending to ponder the Serra in Michael's photo below.

Pintuck T-shirt from Topshop

When we moved to our loft in DUMBO we had to get rid of a lot of things. Pre-war Carroll Gardens basement to a big, airy box in an old factory building meant a huge stylistic change in furniture. But it also gave us the opportunity to get rid of a few other things. And for Michael that meant t-shirts.

200 to be exact. He had t-shirts from postcard locations, t-shirts that were obviously free and t-shirts from people that must think that Michael is a very, very fat man. Which he isn't. So box after box got filled with t-shirts and then shipped off to Housing Works.

Now it's my turn to start amassing t-shirts to make up for his loss. I picked up three of these beauties at London girl-Mecca/clothing hypermarket Topshop, in brown, white and black.

Nom De Guerre Kennedy Jacket

Popped into Nom De Guerre last Monday, had a pleasant conversation with a nice bushy haired guy & walked out with this beautiful waxed jacket. Really nice subtle plaid pattern, belted around the waist & neck, corduroy collar, simple silver unmarked snap buttons & a two way zip - thats about all I needed. Spent the afternoon feeling like I'd just killed a man, "buyers remorse" I suppose - didn't go down too well on the domestic front either, due to the price - "price is relative" I said, this didn't work, 'Return it!" she said...... I held up the receipt - NO REFUNDS (genius) "OK, go exchange it for a small"
that was the last thing she ever said to me..........................

Pure Blue & Full Count

Woke up Saturday morning feeling like the pits, I almost couldn't leave the house, so I summoned all my courage & called a cab to take me into work....arrived 30 minutes late & quickly hopped on the net to ask wikipedia the symptoms of a mid life crisis.....ticked all the boxes bar one & then spent the rest of the day contemplating my existence. The wife phoned me during the day & I explained my predicament........she arrived to pick me up after work & swiftly whisked me off to Blue in Greene - problem solved. Whilst I tried on some jeans she flashed her blue Citibank debit card at the cashier & the transaction was complete. Mid life crisis my arse - I'm only 35.
So I walked out of there with a lovely red thick cotton 'Full Count' T- Shirt, a pair of 'Pure Blue Japan XX-007' jeans & most importantly, a new lease of life.

It's just not cricket

This is one of my favorite sayings, mainly because it makes no sense whatsoever, and because it reminds me of my father. My brothers, my father and Sweetu are the biggest cricket fans I know, and having seen Sweetu's Shoes, I just don't think his life would be complete without this.

So back to the saying..."It's just not cricket" is what we English use instead of saying someting's not "kosher". It basically means that something is just not done, but pertaining not to its validity but to the fact that it just isn't up to par with accepted etiquette. It's not one I use very often, but it's one of my very favorite sayings.

Cazal 953

I've been getting a lot of flak from my lady about these vintage Cazal sunglasses ever since I got them, I absolutely love them, however the first time I wore them she grimaced and told me that I look like Angie from the 70’s. I had no idea who Angie was so I pursued the matter…it took a couple of days to get an answer.
Apparently Angie was actually “Aunt Angie” a family member from Long Island who was “married to the mob” and mysteriously disappeared in the summer of 1978. Intrigued by this I explored the matter further. Aunt Angie was a size 4, olive skinned woman that liked to wear skin tight Sergio Valente Jeans with stilettos, she had a white woman afro, drove a silver Cadillac and she was hot.
If this was supposed to put me off the glasses, it didn’t work.                                        

Pure Blue Japan

These Pure Blue Japan jeans are probably the nicest jeans I've ever worn, they were purchased late March 2007, & have aged beautifully – actually, this was one of the things I picked up on that fateful day I was heading over to Nom De Guerre with a stack of cash. I just happened to drop by Blue in Green on the way (one of my favorite NY stores) - No regrets whatsoever.
They are made from a rough 14 ounce Japanese selvage denim. Although they are shrink to fit I got them in a size 29 waist as I don’t intend to wash them – I’ll just dry clean them when they’re ready. As you can imagine they were pretty tight to begin with, I tried to ride my mate's bike in them but couldn’t even get my leg over (double entendre was intended there – this was one of my fortes as a 15 year old) anyway they stretched out a little with wear & are extremely comfortable now. Considered a slim fit, they just look normal on, & thus I don’t look like a skinny little rocker – that wouldn’t be good.

Nom De Guerre

This Nom De Guerre walking jacket was a piece I acquired earlier this year for a business trip to Milan. I'd just been paid by a client for doing some nice work & had decided to drop $1500 on a few choice bits & bobs from the S/S 2007 range. Well.........on the journey from my house in Brooklyn to the Nom De Guerre store in Manhattan, I somehow managed to blow around $1100 on anything but. This jacket was all I could manage in the end. It’s one of my favorite pieces & I love putting it on, the quality is amazing. Nom de Guerre are pretty impressive, it’s not easy to do simple garments this well & there are only a handful of contemporary company's worldwide that manage it without being too contrived…..they know a thing or two. It’s a nice close fit, made in Japan of course, the underarm vents are holy, the fabric has a nice subtle pinstripe & the zipper is the smoothest Ive come across.
My fave shop in the world is also going to be selling their wares soon…….what more can I say?

Saint James

I actually went out to buy a knitted T-Shirt (I love knitted t-shirts)
A.P.C have a really nice navy one at the moment for $130ish & John Smedley make a great one too. The main reason was that I needed a t-shirt to wear at work & still look smart whilst also taking into account the forthcoming weather. Anyhow I had this "Saint James" one stuck in my subconscious from seeing it a while ago & decided to get it instead.
Its made from a really soft combed cotton & has a boat neck. I ended up getting the small instead of XS so it is a nice relaxed fit. (It was also a quarter of the price of the knitted t-shirts - though I'm not one to be swayed by that)

Saint James was established in Normandy, France in 1889 & became very well known due to their knitted woolen Breton fisherman's sweater which was originally intended for deep sea fishermen, then adopted by known seafarers and amateur yachtsmen.

Rushmoor

Rushmoor is a new British menswear label based in East London. The label is heavily influenced by vintage English countrywear and American workwear but re-interprets and subverts it for the fashion market with interesting fabric, trim and colour touches highlighting functional details. Their design aesthetic is founded in the belief that menswear should not religiously follow fashion trends but instead concentrate on making timeless, classic and quality garments.
I purchased this shirt a few weeks ago. The shirt has 4 pockets on the front with some really nice subtle detailing as well as underarm ventilation holes. All the buttons are sewn with a yellow thread & the fit is spot on.
The piece has a very heritage feel with a fresh contemporary edge.

RRL

My good friend Addi gave me this wallet a few weeks ago, not sure if it was a belated birthday prezzie or because I looked after his cat 'Milo' while he was in Italy - anyhow it doesn't matter anymore. I used to have one of those crappy J Fold wallets for about 3 years & it was such a relief to chuck it away - there was a certain 'deadness' about that wallet which I believe stunted my money making potential over that period. Since getting this new wallet my financial well-being has improved markedly & I'm going to buy Addi a pint to thank him next time we meet.

He has been designing for RRL for the past couple of years, so I asked him to tell me a little about the brand, this what he said............................

"It was started in 1993.  The name comes from the real RRL ranch in Ridgway (NO E), Colorado.  And it is named after Ralph and his wife Ricky.  It's commonly known as
'Ralph's Baby' because out of all of his different brands in Polo, it is as close to his real-life wardrobe as it comes. RRL is primarily a denim brand but we also do outerwear or 'roughwear', great chinos, western shirts, flannels, basic tube-T's, knits, assorted wovens and of course my category of accessories, encompassing:  Leather Bags, Canvas Bags, Leather belts, wallets, jewelry,bandanas, hats, etc.  The mantra for us is to design something that is virtually indistinguishable from true vintage.  So we spend most of our time working on wash and hardware treatments.  Getting all of the details looking as authentic as possible"

R Newbold

R Newbold is a brand with a rich heritage in British workwear, The company, founded in Derby UK in 1885, is a manufacturer of men's and women's shirts, workwear and tailored apparel. Paul Smith took over R. Newbold in 1991 & launched it as a collection in 1993, although it had been making Smith's shirts since 1977. The company’s traditional customer was laborers, and Smith incorporated many of their designs into his own line.
A sought after brand with an avid fanbase, the best pieces seem to be available in Japan however some of the range is still available in Paul Smith stores.

This long sleeve cotton shirt is from the 2007 Spring/Summer collection, the sleeves can be rolled up & buttoned to keep them in place.
Couldn't get my hands on this one, so had to settle for a Margaret Howell pinstripe shirt instead, - I'll write about her & the shirt, later.

photograph courtesy of Zozo Town

Whitehouse Cox

Whitehouse Cox was established 1875 in the West Midlands, UK, so it is pretty old school & thus the quality is amazing - They make high end leather bags, briefcases, wallets, belts & other accessories.

Unfortunately, and what always is the case with the best gear, this canvas/leather collection only seems to be available in Japan.

Actually I just found out that these are not in production any more.........shame!

photographs courtesy of Midland Ship

Herz

Handbags for men aren't an easy thing to carry off (pardon the pun) without looking a little flash, or awkward, or even a little staged. So  when I discovered this company I got  a little excited.  Have been searching high &  low for the past week to buy  one, but to no avail. Check back next week & I guarantee you I'll have  one, till then its me, & my brown paper bag for company.

photographs courtesy of Herz

Pyrenex

Am definitely going to pay an arm & a leg for one of these jackets.
They are made by a French company who's specialty is duvets (the truth)

photograph courtesy of Midland Ship