Nova Clutch

Sherry Shakes, Port Shakes

Very adult, pure decadence.

Natasha, Michele, Jen and I stopped by The Chocolate Room in Brooklyn in the mood for something unusual to satiate our post-dinner sweet tooth. On a whim, we made a special request for vanilla milkshakes made with Sherry and they graciously indulged us, although we ended-up with Port shakes on account of an untimely Hidalgo Sherry outage. No matter, they were delicious and provided a perfect hybrid of dessert and digestivo - all in one divine, blended package.

According to the manager, our Port shake experiment will now be appearing as a special on this weekend’s menu under the moniker “The King of Shakes” after my jokingly gratuitous suggestion that they name it after me was [rightly] dismissed. It’s actually a derivative of my nickname, but that’s neither here nor there.

The beauty of this very proper dessert is in its simplicity and the meld flavours. Key to this combination is excellent-quality Sherry or Port and homemade vanilla ice cream, or at minimum an ultra-premium vanilla from your favorite gourmet outlet. Plus the topping of a simple dollop of unsweetened whipped cream or panna, and a very civilized straw. 

This weekend, Nova Clutch cellars will be titrating the perfect Amaro milkshake, most likely made from Averna due to its balance of bitter – for which it is named – and sweet finish. This is in honor of Ben, my handsomer half who fell under the spell of Amaro one night at a desolate masseria [fortified farmhouse] in Puglia during our road trip through southern Italy last October...

Titanium Wine Glasses and Franciacorta

Much as I would love to have a cupboard full of high-end, varietal-specific glasses, that just seems a bit too-too for a space-starved New Yorker. This has been a year of remodeling and carefully editing possessions – out with the lemon squeezer and in with a proper set of wine glasses. But which ones?

After arduous research, I opted for the Scott-Zwiesel 'Fortissimo' Bordeaux wine glasses. The Bordeaux shape is classic, and all-purpose enough to enhance any varietal from a big Barolo to a flowery Roero-Arneis. What’s genius is that they have fortified the glass with titanium to lend brawn and resilience, while still maintaining brilliance and clarity. Measuring in at nearly 11 inches tall, their height and elegance make them the supermodel of the wine glass world. Plus, the 22-ounce capacity makes for good swirling. It just took me a bit before realizing that I was serving one-third bottle pours in each glass. Lucky dinner guests.

That said - I still keep a separate set of glasses for bubbly as I’m a purist when it comes to sparkling wines. Ultimately, I’d like to replace the current set with the champagne flutes from the Fortissimo line, which would have been a perfect addition to my leisurely brunch at home with B. today that involved  Ca’del Bosco Franciacorta. As one of Italy’s premier producers of bubbly, this bone-dry spumante (which is a generic term for sparkling wine in Italian) is made from a heavenly blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc and is among my top picks for ringing in the new year – although I’m also contemplating Bruno Giacosa Spumante.

No story is complete without beautiful irony. I broke one of my titanium wine glasses the first time out the gate - but that was due to user error. Strong as they may be, evidently they cannot withstand a CaesarStone-to-cement-floor drop in a fit of conversation (or at least that's the blog-friendly version)...

Cin cin e buon anno a tutti!

Everyday Wines: Athesia Lagrein

Over a recent dinner out with colleagues the topic invariably turned to which wine to order. Everyone has a different relationship with vino, and a quick poll demonstrated the relative disparity of what is considered a low-commitment versus a special-occasion wine.

Such was the inspiration to start featuring a few favorite bottles that I consider to be "everyday wine" - a selection of go-to wines that represents a positive price-to-pleasure ratio. My criteria are 1) enjoyable both at home or suitable to take to a gathering; 2) pleasant with or without food, and 3) guilt-free if you were to open the bottle and only drink half – as if that ever happens, but for the sake of argument...

Preamble aside, that sums up an excellent Lagrein from a producer called Athesia in Trentino, Italy. At $10.99 a bottle it's a veritable bargain for everyday enjoyment, without depleting the coffers of Nova Clutch cellars - much as I wish it were full of only the likes of Quintarelli, Bea and Gravner.

Lagrein ("la-grINE") is an obscure and wonderfully rustic varietal rumoured to be a relative of Syrah. Grown in the Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol region, this bold, full-bodied red is berry-forward without being too fruity, and balanced so nicely with lengthy tannins. There’s a hint of violet, a touch of gravel. It’s also gorgeous in the glass, with an inky purple hue that Italians refer to as “scuro.”

Artesia’s Lagrein made an appearance the other evening, when chilly weather called for grilled skirt steak, roasted heirloom carrots and purple cauliflower mash with Parmigiano-Reggiano. Pure comfort food to mitigate the culinary dilemma now that tomatoes are no longer in season - about which Natasha and I are still in denial. At least a few glasses of this lovely Lagrein helped ease the drama.

I open this one up for commentary - what do you consider an everyday wine?

Wine: 2004 Athesia Lagrein, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italia
Varietal: 100% Lagrein
Recommended Pairings: Roasted pork chops with rosemary; roasted autumn vegetables such as Romanesco or parsnips; sautéed Swiss chard; Piave vecchio, Montasio or other hard cheeses

Kellerei Cantina Terlan Sauvignon Blanc

I've been wrongfully dismissive of Sauvignon Blanc. Wrongful in that I’ve clearly been missing out. Given accusations of geocentricism in my wine preferences (I’m sure I have no idea what anyone is talking about), it should come as no surprise that this particular Kellerei Cantina Terlano Sauvignon hails from Trentino-Alto Adige, in a region known as Südtirol.

This Terlano Sauvignon is viscous, rich and ripe, with the faintest floral nose. A touch of apple and peach, and an undercurrent of tropical pineapple – all of which shine through the greenish-yellow colour. On first blush, it has a hint of grapefruit and Meyer lemon – but with greater restraint than those from New Zealand, which can be tricky with food.

Shimmering bright herbaciousness and slightly dirty – in a good way – minerality hints of the sandy, porphyry gravel in which these grapes were grown prior to being aged in stainless steel for eight months. And nary a touch of oak. All the makings of a great wine in my book.

B. - a previously confirmed red-wine drinker - and I opened this up one night over light meal of salumi, formaggi and Lacinato kale salad when it was simply too hot to ignite the oven or turn on the stove. We uncorked this wonderful wine with my recently acquired waiter’s friend corkscrew, which has risen above the rest on my quest for the ultimate opener. It’s refined, elegant and handsome – much like its gifter.

 

Wine: 2005 Kellerei Cantina Terlan(o) Sauvignon Winkl, Terlano, Italia
Varietal: 100% Sauvignon Blanc
Recommended Pairings: Hard, aged cheeses, egg-pasta with chanterelles or morels, and raw shellfish

La Viarta Ribolla Gialla

Ribolla Gialla, a native Friulano varietal, is a seriously solid white that holds its own against flavorful, rich foods - and enough to make a believer out of even the most stalwart red wine fanatics. This particular producer, La Viarta, is situated in a miniscule growing region known as Prepoto, also home to eccentric and innovative winemaker Edi Kante. I had the incredible pleasure of visiting this region (and Kante's fantastical winery) a few years ago - the amazing wildflower honey and bright olive oil from which still linger in my memory.

By sight, this La Viarta has a wonderfully bright and characteristic straw- to greenish-yellow color. Pure Ribolla Gialla. By smell, our Ribolla turns up pears, apples and tropical fruit hints.

What's so delightful is the utter balance of full-bodied flavors; rich on the palate with apples, yellow plums, tarragon and undertones of pineapple and passionfruit, accompanied by wooded undertones - despite being entirely unoaked. Grown in a sandy, Eocene marl - for you and me, that means a mixture of clay and lime - which imparts that deep, intensely luxurious mineral finish. This Ribolla Gialla is hand harvested, aged in stainless steel and spends one month in the bottle before releasing its wonderful goodness to the outside world.

La Viarte also produces Refosco Dal Peduncolo Rosso, Schiopettino and Tazzelenge - mysterious varietals of the strange that I crave, but have nary a way to get my hands on this side of the Atlantic. That unto itself warrants a return visit to this obscure and wonderful corner of Italy.

Wine: La Viarte Ribolla Gialla 2005, Colli Orientali Del Friuli Azienda Agricoloa La Viarte, Prepoto, Italia
Varietal: 100% Ribolla Gialla
Recommended Pairings: Fritto misto, grilled shrimp, raw clams/oysters and seafood-based pastas such as squid-ink with calamari

Bisson Ciliegiolo Rosato (Rosé)

I've always harbored a secret fantasy of finding a rosé that is a perfect meld of white and red. Despite endless "rosé is the new black!" editorial, hopes have been dashed when blush wines reminiscent of wh*te zinf*ndel materialized. And that's nobody's idea of a good time.

That said, "sheer delight" sums up Bisson's Ciliegiolo (chee-lee-AYE-geò-lo), made from a rare, unique grape cultivated in northwestern Italy's Ligurian coastline. While Ciliegiolo is rumoured to be a distant relative of Sangiovese, little is reminiscent of its lineage.

This particular rosato is on the darker side of pink. Natasha and I enjoyed our crimson beauty with a summery ratatouille. Bisson recommends an optimal serving temperature of  61˚F (16˚C), but a brief spell in the refrigerator beforehand does the trick. On the palate, Ciliegiolo is ripe with intense fruit flavors of cherries and forest berries and a touch of tartness, complemented by an enduring, minerally finish. Aged entirely in stainless steel, this fermentation process imparts a fresh and lively acidity.

In addition to tasting amazing, this wine is also a feat of acrobatics - which lends even more to its charm. Artisinal winemaker Pierluigi Lugano has done his part to lovingly preserve increasingly rare, indigenous varietals such as Ciliegiolo. Cultivation is truly a labor of love and done by hand, as it is one of the world's most absurdly impossible grape-growing regions. Gravity-defying gravely hills give way to steep slopes high above the Mediterranean below, where harvesting machinery is simply out of the question.

I'm very curious to try a Prosecco - also from Bisson - that I just picked up, which should make for a perfect, summery roof deck aperitivo. Stay tuned...

Wine: 2006 Enoteca Bisson Ciliegiolo, Golfo Del Tiguellio, Liguria, Italy
Varietal: 100% Ciliegiolo
Recommended Pairings: Summery vegetable dishes scented with fresh herbs such as thyme, marjoram, basil; grilled mahi-mahi, shellfish and delicate cheeses

Santa Maria Novella Liqueur – Elisir di Rose

Our friends Jen and Tom shouldn't have asked if we wanted anything from Italy when they went last week. Because of course, we asked for something they had to run around the whole of Florence to find. But I think it was worth it.

I have been lusting over a bottle of this precious elixir for a long time, and have been told repeatedly that you cannot buy it in the States. So Tom ransacked Florence and found a tiny bottle of it. Santa Maria Novella is more famously known for its herbal colognes and cosmetics, all of which is packaged beautifully.

This liqueur is a gorgeous pink color and is so pretty that I almost didn't want to open it. Almost. The taste actually stunned me. The nose is overtly rose with a tinge of sweetness – basically it smells like turkish delight. The alcohol sits somewhere between the rose and the sugar, none of the three elements overpowering one another. It's silky smooth, no alcholic bite and no cloying sweetness. Just amazing. I have to say, it blew mine away.

After the stress of liqueur-hunting and traveling back to New York, Jen stopped by Lafco on her way home. Apparently they sell Santa Maria Novella liqueur there now.

File Under R, for Rebo

It's official: I love this wine. A special gift from Lombardia, in the form of a 750 mL bottle.

Italy is home to some 2.000-odd grape varietals, and this 2003 Diana F.lli Trevisani is one of the 'odd' ones - a blend of Merlot and Rebo. Rebo is shorthand for Rebo Rigotti - an experimental hybrid created 1948 by Dr. Rebo Rigotti that involved crossing Marzemino with Teroldego grapes. His namesake results are stunning, and have now earned DOC designation.

Leather and licorice on the nose, as well as mossy, forest floor characteristics. Dark, dark earthy taste with a hint of spice and some serious tannins. Those are the Teroldego underpinnings showing through. While it may leave you vaguely parched, it will certainly not leave you for wanting. Utterly bone-dry, but balanced, like a witty sense of humor. Merlot rounds out the edges for a lush and lengthy finish.

If it's possible to pair wine and music, this one would have a Sigur Rós soundtrack. Both are otherworldly and ethereal and best enjoyed on a rainy night when late-spring is giving way to the sultry humidity of summer, and a fit of insomnia [or maybe that's just this scribe's state of mind].

Wine: 2003 Diana F.lli Trevisani , Lombardia, Italy 
Varietals: 80% Rebo, 20% Merlot
Recommended Pairings: Asiago and Montasio cheeses; porkchops, veal or roasted duck with sage and rosemary

Montepulciano...Da Puglia

Montepulciano D'Abruzzo is a stalwart companion for many a meal, but a Montepulciano from Puglia? There's a new twist. The Puglia region (the "heel" of Italy's proverbial boot) is famous for its Trulli homes, and was the subject of a recent, raptuous story in the New York Times travel section. And quite possibly my next travel destination.

So when my trusty wine pal at Astor Wines was gushing over a bottle of Antica Enotria Montepulciano from this region, it was an immediate purchase. Plus, it was in the corner section, where I'm often caught looking moony over the Gravner Ribolla Gialla Amphora and various Quintarelli vintages. Swoon.

Antica Enotria's vines are cultivated using stringent biological cultivation practices. Garnet hued or, as every bottle of red in Italy seems to say, "the colour of red rubies."  Leather, dirt and licorice on the nose. Fruity with bramble berries, and wonderfully unoaked, just as promised. Plus a very nice dry, lenghty finish.

What's delightful is how versatile this wine is. So nicely balanced that it stands alone, although it would be perfect with a little finnochina salame from Di Palo's, the venerable house of mozzarella and all things deliriously good and Italian in New York's Little Italy.

I opened this bottle with my recently acquired Blomus screwpull - my great hope for the perfect meld of form + function - which unfortunately requires a fair amount of theatrics to accomplish a relatively simple, albeit reverent, task. While the ultimate wine opener still eludes me, I'm hopeful. Now for some new wine glasses...

Wine: 2004 Antica Enotria Falu, Cerignola, Puglia, Italy
Varietal: 100% Montepulciano, aged in stainless steel
Recommended Pairings: Salumi, peppery greens, meat stews, grilled polenta with cheese.

Merlot

Yes, you read that correctly: Merlot.

This particular wine is one my favorite party tricks. Cantina Terlan Siebeneich Merlot Riserva is a pedigreed gem that suggests little of the uninspired varietal that one usually associates with Merlot. Perhaps I'm perverse, but there's something utterly delightful in being proven wrong about the basic tenets one holds true when it comes to wine.

This notable Merlot smells faintly of marjoram, and tastes of concentrated plums and red currants that meld together into something entirely pleasant. The vines are grown in clay and sandy soil 800 feet above sea level, producing a wine with a seemingly higher alcohol content than its 13% .

The Kellerei Cantina Terlano cooperative has been lauded for exemplary permutations of classic and lesser-know varietals, and has received several Tre Bicchieri awards from the Gambero Rosso guide. One of the things that always throws me right off is the non-Italianate names of the vintners and wines from the Trentino Alto-Adige region, owing to the neighboring countries of Austria and Switzerland - the Italian we all know ends in a lilting vowel and most certainly doesn't contain umlauts.

That Terlan's Merlot also happens to be a ridiculous bargain at Astor Wines is simply a bonus. With such a high value-to-tastiness ratio, a bulk purchase doesn't require a second invitation. The Nova Clutch cellars have bottle of Terlano's Porphyr Lagrein awaiting one inevitable last cold spell, and their Sauvignon Winkl is on the wishlist for a summer roof-deck meal of softshell crabs and grilled asparagus.

Wine: 2002 Cantina Terlano Siebeneich Merlot Riserva, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy
Varietal: 100% Merlot
Recommended Pairings: Pork dishes, sausage of any sort, pasta Bolognese, Pecorino Romano.

Cabernet Franc

Imagine the surprise of walking into the newly revamped Chelsea Wine Vault, only to find Dorigo Cabernet Franc on sale as part of their "Top-ten Wines of the Month" promotion. Imagine the horror of seeing this charming, surprising Fruilano wonder blasphemously labeled "The Burger Wine of the Month!!". Poor, underrated Cabernet Franc. The varietal we are used to seeing blended, but - when cultivated with love and tenderness - transforms into something altogether luscious, warm and spicy on its own.

This is a wine not uncharacteristic of the region from which it stems - that is to say, it's not an easy wine. I wouldn't even venture into "crowd pleaser" territory, but it's worth the trip outside one's comfort zone. It's refined on the nose, and bizarre on the palette at first blush. Dark berries over liquorice, with a touch of herbs. Chalky minerality the speaks of the rocky, volcanic soil in which it grows, and capped by a velvety, intelligent finish.

Girolamo Dorigo is an amazing producer. They offer some rarified varietals such as Schioppettino, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso (namesake of my red Betta fish) and Tazzelenghe (which means, in dialect, "cut tongue") - with razor-sharp tannins that are somehow infinitely pleasurable and balanced. For the uninitiated. Dorigo offers a little clue on each of his labels: those with the wine barrel icon indicate that the wine was aged in barrique - if that is to your liking.

I have a soft spot in my heart for this Cab Franc - meant to be appreciated, lingered over and paired with witty conversation. I can always count on Natasha and Michael for that.

Wine: 2003 Girolamo Dorigo Cabernet Franc, Colli Orientali Del Friuli, Italia
Varietal: 100% Cabernet Franc
Recommended Pairings: Meat dishes, tomato-based pastas or heavenly all on its own. Case-purchase worthy.

Monday at The Monday Room: Wine + Food (in that order)

On a whim we decided to visit The Monday Room, and sample our way through some old- and new-world wines. This beautifully designed enclave boasts impressive shock value on two levels: the first being a few out-of-character expressions of some standard-issue varietals, the second being sticker shock. It's rare to see half-glass prices go for what you'd expect from a bottle, which is well out of order in my book.

First up were the whites. I opted to go the Kiwi and Italian route, and Natasha the French. The 2005 Isabel Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, New Zealand) was far more off-dry than I'm accustomed to, with heaps of pineapple and starfruit on the palate - but balanced nicely by a mineraly clay finish. The 2004 Cayega Roero Arneis (Italy) was more true to form, tasting of honeysuckle and little white flowers, with a finish of almonds. N. had a 2002 Les Perrieres Pouilly-Fuisse, which was a giant white. Viscous and full-bodied, with an amber tone and floral nose and overtones of dried fruits and raisins and unmistakable oak. This wine could stand up to some serious food.

To accompany our whites, we ate glazed eel with pickled bean sprouts topped by a lone, perfect little soft-boiled quail egg. The quail eggs will most definitely be making their way into our respective kitchens. Also, raw Tasmanian sea trout with piccalilli, shichimi and the most incredible toasted bread, as well as a dashi custard with lobster and lime (a bit too-too). On a Monday? Sure, why not. Life's short.

Then for the reds. I'm on a Blaufrankisch kick these days, finding this Austrian varietal sharing some of the unusual characteristics you find in northern Italian reds from Friuli-Venezia Guilia, Trentino Alto-Adige and other hyphenated regions. This particular version, a 2004 Glatzer Blaufrankisch (Austria), is hyper-concentrated with tart currants, raspberries and heaps of jagged tannins. N's foil to mine was a 2004 Costières de Nîmes, Domaine de la Petite Casagne (Languedoc, France).

Then for a new-world Pinot Noir taste-off. From Oregon, a 2004 Cristom Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, USA) with a nose that that Natasha adroitly identified as "house paint," which was spot on, along with more predictable raspberries and marjoram on the palate. The other contender was a 2003 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir (Martinborough, New Zealand) from a very small growing area in the North Island that is producing some of their best Pinots. Once getting past the strong petroleum on the nose, we were treated to a spicy, herbaceous and balanced expression of this noble grape.

Accompanying these wines were an ultra-tasty smoked New Zealand venison carpaccio with licorice-pickled onions, and grilled chorizo with a puree of black beans and chocolate, plus an exquisite pickled pepper. For a last-minute whim, it was indeed a happy Monday.

A Morellino By Any Other Name

In the spirit of all things sanguine, we recently had a Morellino di Scansano evening. Perfect for times when the mercury barely creeps above freezing. This rich, juicy wine is actually made from Sangiovese grapes - yes, those of Chianti fame - but given the local name Morellino in the warmer climes of southern Tuscany, from which it hails. On the menu was bresaola and baby arugula salad with shaved mushrooms and Parmeggiano, a hearty, spicy zuppa di pasta e fagioli and Michele's amazing cardamom ice cream with spicy chocolate meringues.

What was most surprising was how utterly polar these two wines were. Both were 2004 vintages, fermented in stainless steel and finished in barrique...and red. Which was where the similarities ended. First up was a 2004 Le Pupille Morellino di Scanscano from Elisabetta Geppetti - a highly regarded female winemaker. This was much thinner in both colour and body than anticipated, with a fair amount of acidity. Bright cherries, black cherries, cherries of all sorts on the palette. A touch of raspberries, finished by undertones of wood and a sandy minerality that stems from the soil in which it grows. All-in-all, a well-balanced wine, but not necessarily the essence of that which inspires deep longings and cravings (we've all known a wine like that).

Geppetti's style was a perfect foil to the next vintage, a 2004 Fattoria di Magliano Heba Morellino di Scansano. Heba is an infinitely pleasant bottle, bordering on addictive. This viscous wine's bright, rich berries were immediate, along with plum and hints of violet. Something herbaceous lingering below the surface, rounded out with a gentle caress of wood on the finish. The tannins were much less pronounced, and this was declared the unanimous preference. Perhaps it was the addition of 15% Syrah to the blend that give it just the right amount of structure and spiciness.

Further research into the curious Morellino is both warranted and anticipated. So many varietals, so few days in the week.

Wine: 2004 Morellino di Scansano D.O.C., Tuscany, Italy
Varietal: 100% Sangiovese (Le Pupille); 85% Sangiovese and 15% Syrah (Fattoria di Magliano)
Recommended Pairings: Hearty fare, such as roasted meats, herb-scented beans and creamy cow's milk cheeses

Brunello Di Montalcino

What were you doing in 1985? If I were an Il Colle Brunello Di Montalcino D.O.C.G., I might muse that I was on the verge of something great. Something so great, no one would really understand the depths of it for another twenty-odd years.

This particular bottle was one of only 600 to grace the U.S. shores, and a true pleasure. Our Brunello was expertly poured by Natasha using a slow, back-lit decanting process to separate every last, precious drop from the sediment. We used Riedel's Ultra decanter for the process and, while impressive in its heft, its general ergonomics leave a bit to be desired.

And then the greatly anticipated part: tasting. Words. Lack thereof. Stumbling for adjectives as a woodsy, earthy nose gave way to ripe cherries, blackberries and a concentrated plum on the palate that slipped into chocolatey velvetiness and a finish that lingered. And lingered.

In reverence, we put aside our Brunello to be savored after the meal, lest the spicy acidity of the pasta con pesce we'd cooked compete with it. During the 2 a.m. clean-up I couldn't help but try to extract one last sip out of the bottle, but was foiled by a run-in with the sediment and left with just a memory.

Wine: 1985 Il Colle Brunello Di Montalcino D.O.C.G.
Varietal: 100% Sangiovese, oak-aged and cellared in tufo
Recommended Pairings: hard, aged cheeses and red meat or game

in vino

I went out with Sarit and Michele on Friday night to In Vino. Getting there first and sitting at the bar (they wouldn’t let me sit at a table on my own, even though it was 6pm and there was no one else in there) I bonded with the barmen on our joint love of Planeta. Planeta is a stellar producer of wines and olive oils in Sicily. They produce a few different grapes from different areas in Sicily. I really intend on going to this vineyard this year. It’s truly unbelievable.

The bartender told me that Planeta produced olive oils, which I didn't know, and he very nicely offered to let me try some that he had bought personally, as In Vino doesn't serve it. It is luscious; green but light and very fresh. I don't know of any stores that sell it, but I will seek it out, even if I have to buy a case.