In the spirit of all things sanguine, we recently had a Morellino di Scansano evening. Perfect for times when the mercury barely creeps above freezing. This rich, juicy wine is actually made from Sangiovese grapes - yes, those of Chianti fame - but given the local name Morellino in the warmer climes of southern Tuscany, from which it hails. On the menu was bresaola and baby arugula salad with shaved mushrooms and Parmeggiano, a hearty, spicy zuppa di pasta e fagioli and Michele's amazing cardamom ice cream with spicy chocolate meringues.
What was most surprising was how utterly polar these two wines were. Both were 2004 vintages, fermented in stainless steel and finished in barrique...and red. Which was where the similarities ended. First up was a 2004 Le Pupille Morellino di Scanscano from Elisabetta Geppetti - a highly regarded female winemaker. This was much thinner in both colour and body than anticipated, with a fair amount of acidity. Bright cherries, black cherries, cherries of all sorts on the palette. A touch of raspberries, finished by undertones of wood and a sandy minerality that stems from the soil in which it grows. All-in-all, a well-balanced wine, but not necessarily the essence of that which inspires deep longings and cravings (we've all known a wine like that).
Geppetti's style was a perfect foil to the next vintage, a 2004 Fattoria di Magliano Heba Morellino di Scansano. Heba is an infinitely pleasant bottle, bordering on addictive. This viscous wine's bright, rich berries were immediate, along with plum and hints of violet. Something herbaceous lingering below the surface, rounded out with a gentle caress of wood on the finish. The tannins were much less pronounced, and this was declared the unanimous preference. Perhaps it was the addition of 15% Syrah to the blend that give it just the right amount of structure and spiciness.
Further research into the curious Morellino is both warranted and anticipated. So many varietals, so few days in the week.
Wine: 2004 Morellino di Scansano D.O.C., Tuscany, Italy
Varietal: 100% Sangiovese (Le Pupille); 85% Sangiovese and 15% Syrah (Fattoria di Magliano)
Recommended Pairings: Hearty fare, such as roasted meats, herb-scented beans and creamy cow's milk cheeses