I've always harbored a secret fantasy of finding a rosé that is a perfect meld of white and red. Despite endless "rosé is the new black!" editorial, hopes have been dashed when blush wines reminiscent of wh*te zinf*ndel materialized. And that's nobody's idea of a good time.
That said, "sheer delight" sums up Bisson's Ciliegiolo (chee-lee-AYE-geò-lo), made from a rare, unique grape cultivated in northwestern Italy's Ligurian coastline. While Ciliegiolo is rumoured to be a distant relative of Sangiovese, little is reminiscent of its lineage.
This particular rosato is on the darker side of pink. Natasha and I enjoyed our crimson beauty with a summery ratatouille. Bisson recommends an optimal serving temperature of 61˚F (16˚C), but a brief spell in the refrigerator beforehand does the trick. On the palate, Ciliegiolo is ripe with intense fruit flavors of cherries and forest berries and a touch of tartness, complemented by an enduring, minerally finish. Aged entirely in stainless steel, this fermentation process imparts a fresh and lively acidity.
In addition to tasting amazing, this wine is also a feat of acrobatics - which lends even more to its charm. Artisinal winemaker Pierluigi Lugano has done his part to lovingly preserve increasingly rare, indigenous varietals such as Ciliegiolo. Cultivation is truly a labor of love and done by hand, as it is one of the world's most absurdly impossible grape-growing regions. Gravity-defying gravely hills give way to steep slopes high above the Mediterranean below, where harvesting machinery is simply out of the question.
I'm very curious to try a Prosecco - also from Bisson - that I just picked up, which should make for a perfect, summery roof deck aperitivo. Stay tuned...
Wine: 2006 Enoteca Bisson Ciliegiolo, Golfo Del Tiguellio, Liguria, Italy
Varietal: 100% Ciliegiolo
Recommended Pairings: Summery vegetable dishes scented with fresh herbs such as thyme, marjoram, basil; grilled mahi-mahi, shellfish and delicate cheeses
i haven't had a chance to have the '06 ciliegiolo yet, but i loved it last year. i also really enjoyed the nusserhof lagrein rose from '05, sadly no luck getting it this year. i did, however, have quite a nice surprise with the iron horse rosato di sangiovese from alexander valley. lots of crushed currents and dark strawberries with mineral notes to last and last. you need to post more wine reviews...and how are you?(!)?
Posted by: eric | July 21, 2007 at 07:18 PM
ah, yes the nusserhof - that was truly amazing, agreed! we need to see ribolla gialla from rocca bernarda or dorigo make an appearance @ astor again pretty please. i'll have to stop by and pick up the iron horse; a domestic wine, imagine that! thanks for the suggestion, and i'll see if can't pick up the pace on the vino entries :)
Posted by: thérèse | July 28, 2007 at 02:24 PM
in a moment of beautiful irony, today's epicurious e-mail newsletter was entitled "Drink Pink." evidently i was on to something with the opening line in this post :)
"Drinking pink is finally out of the wine closet. "Pink is the new black!" tout the folks from the famous French rose region, Cotes de Provence...." -Epicurious, 7/31/07
Posted by: thérèse | July 31, 2007 at 02:58 PM
Discover Lugano is the first-of-its-kind online travel photo gallery dedicated to this part of the world. While striving to create a fun and informative online experience, is much more. It is also a feature-rich travel planning tool focused solely on the lakes, mountains, shops, nightlife, and dining spots found in this vibrant city with a small town feel. Discover Lugano users can map points of interest and add points of interest onto itineraries. They can even download and email finalized itineraries to themselves, friends and relatives. www.discoverlugano.ch
Posted by: discover lugano | December 02, 2008 at 12:00 AM