Nova Clutch

Cabernet Franc

Imagine the surprise of walking into the newly revamped Chelsea Wine Vault, only to find Dorigo Cabernet Franc on sale as part of their "Top-ten Wines of the Month" promotion. Imagine the horror of seeing this charming, surprising Fruilano wonder blasphemously labeled "The Burger Wine of the Month!!". Poor, underrated Cabernet Franc. The varietal we are used to seeing blended, but - when cultivated with love and tenderness - transforms into something altogether luscious, warm and spicy on its own.

This is a wine not uncharacteristic of the region from which it stems - that is to say, it's not an easy wine. I wouldn't even venture into "crowd pleaser" territory, but it's worth the trip outside one's comfort zone. It's refined on the nose, and bizarre on the palette at first blush. Dark berries over liquorice, with a touch of herbs. Chalky minerality the speaks of the rocky, volcanic soil in which it grows, and capped by a velvety, intelligent finish.

Girolamo Dorigo is an amazing producer. They offer some rarified varietals such as Schioppettino, Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso (namesake of my red Betta fish) and Tazzelenghe (which means, in dialect, "cut tongue") - with razor-sharp tannins that are somehow infinitely pleasurable and balanced. For the uninitiated. Dorigo offers a little clue on each of his labels: those with the wine barrel icon indicate that the wine was aged in barrique - if that is to your liking.

I have a soft spot in my heart for this Cab Franc - meant to be appreciated, lingered over and paired with witty conversation. I can always count on Natasha and Michael for that.

Wine: 2003 Girolamo Dorigo Cabernet Franc, Colli Orientali Del Friuli, Italia
Varietal: 100% Cabernet Franc
Recommended Pairings: Meat dishes, tomato-based pastas or heavenly all on its own. Case-purchase worthy.

Monday at The Monday Room: Wine + Food (in that order)

On a whim we decided to visit The Monday Room, and sample our way through some old- and new-world wines. This beautifully designed enclave boasts impressive shock value on two levels: the first being a few out-of-character expressions of some standard-issue varietals, the second being sticker shock. It's rare to see half-glass prices go for what you'd expect from a bottle, which is well out of order in my book.

First up were the whites. I opted to go the Kiwi and Italian route, and Natasha the French. The 2005 Isabel Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough, New Zealand) was far more off-dry than I'm accustomed to, with heaps of pineapple and starfruit on the palate - but balanced nicely by a mineraly clay finish. The 2004 Cayega Roero Arneis (Italy) was more true to form, tasting of honeysuckle and little white flowers, with a finish of almonds. N. had a 2002 Les Perrieres Pouilly-Fuisse, which was a giant white. Viscous and full-bodied, with an amber tone and floral nose and overtones of dried fruits and raisins and unmistakable oak. This wine could stand up to some serious food.

To accompany our whites, we ate glazed eel with pickled bean sprouts topped by a lone, perfect little soft-boiled quail egg. The quail eggs will most definitely be making their way into our respective kitchens. Also, raw Tasmanian sea trout with piccalilli, shichimi and the most incredible toasted bread, as well as a dashi custard with lobster and lime (a bit too-too). On a Monday? Sure, why not. Life's short.

Then for the reds. I'm on a Blaufrankisch kick these days, finding this Austrian varietal sharing some of the unusual characteristics you find in northern Italian reds from Friuli-Venezia Guilia, Trentino Alto-Adige and other hyphenated regions. This particular version, a 2004 Glatzer Blaufrankisch (Austria), is hyper-concentrated with tart currants, raspberries and heaps of jagged tannins. N's foil to mine was a 2004 Costières de Nîmes, Domaine de la Petite Casagne (Languedoc, France).

Then for a new-world Pinot Noir taste-off. From Oregon, a 2004 Cristom Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley, USA) with a nose that that Natasha adroitly identified as "house paint," which was spot on, along with more predictable raspberries and marjoram on the palate. The other contender was a 2003 Ata Rangi Pinot Noir (Martinborough, New Zealand) from a very small growing area in the North Island that is producing some of their best Pinots. Once getting past the strong petroleum on the nose, we were treated to a spicy, herbaceous and balanced expression of this noble grape.

Accompanying these wines were an ultra-tasty smoked New Zealand venison carpaccio with licorice-pickled onions, and grilled chorizo with a puree of black beans and chocolate, plus an exquisite pickled pepper. For a last-minute whim, it was indeed a happy Monday.

A Morellino By Any Other Name

In the spirit of all things sanguine, we recently had a Morellino di Scansano evening. Perfect for times when the mercury barely creeps above freezing. This rich, juicy wine is actually made from Sangiovese grapes - yes, those of Chianti fame - but given the local name Morellino in the warmer climes of southern Tuscany, from which it hails. On the menu was bresaola and baby arugula salad with shaved mushrooms and Parmeggiano, a hearty, spicy zuppa di pasta e fagioli and Michele's amazing cardamom ice cream with spicy chocolate meringues.

What was most surprising was how utterly polar these two wines were. Both were 2004 vintages, fermented in stainless steel and finished in barrique...and red. Which was where the similarities ended. First up was a 2004 Le Pupille Morellino di Scanscano from Elisabetta Geppetti - a highly regarded female winemaker. This was much thinner in both colour and body than anticipated, with a fair amount of acidity. Bright cherries, black cherries, cherries of all sorts on the palette. A touch of raspberries, finished by undertones of wood and a sandy minerality that stems from the soil in which it grows. All-in-all, a well-balanced wine, but not necessarily the essence of that which inspires deep longings and cravings (we've all known a wine like that).

Geppetti's style was a perfect foil to the next vintage, a 2004 Fattoria di Magliano Heba Morellino di Scansano. Heba is an infinitely pleasant bottle, bordering on addictive. This viscous wine's bright, rich berries were immediate, along with plum and hints of violet. Something herbaceous lingering below the surface, rounded out with a gentle caress of wood on the finish. The tannins were much less pronounced, and this was declared the unanimous preference. Perhaps it was the addition of 15% Syrah to the blend that give it just the right amount of structure and spiciness.

Further research into the curious Morellino is both warranted and anticipated. So many varietals, so few days in the week.

Wine: 2004 Morellino di Scansano D.O.C., Tuscany, Italy
Varietal: 100% Sangiovese (Le Pupille); 85% Sangiovese and 15% Syrah (Fattoria di Magliano)
Recommended Pairings: Hearty fare, such as roasted meats, herb-scented beans and creamy cow's milk cheeses

Brunello Di Montalcino

What were you doing in 1985? If I were an Il Colle Brunello Di Montalcino D.O.C.G., I might muse that I was on the verge of something great. Something so great, no one would really understand the depths of it for another twenty-odd years.

This particular bottle was one of only 600 to grace the U.S. shores, and a true pleasure. Our Brunello was expertly poured by Natasha using a slow, back-lit decanting process to separate every last, precious drop from the sediment. We used Riedel's Ultra decanter for the process and, while impressive in its heft, its general ergonomics leave a bit to be desired.

And then the greatly anticipated part: tasting. Words. Lack thereof. Stumbling for adjectives as a woodsy, earthy nose gave way to ripe cherries, blackberries and a concentrated plum on the palate that slipped into chocolatey velvetiness and a finish that lingered. And lingered.

In reverence, we put aside our Brunello to be savored after the meal, lest the spicy acidity of the pasta con pesce we'd cooked compete with it. During the 2 a.m. clean-up I couldn't help but try to extract one last sip out of the bottle, but was foiled by a run-in with the sediment and left with just a memory.

Wine: 1985 Il Colle Brunello Di Montalcino D.O.C.G.
Varietal: 100% Sangiovese, oak-aged and cellared in tufo
Recommended Pairings: hard, aged cheeses and red meat or game

in vino

I went out with Sarit and Michele on Friday night to In Vino. Getting there first and sitting at the bar (they wouldn’t let me sit at a table on my own, even though it was 6pm and there was no one else in there) I bonded with the barmen on our joint love of Planeta. Planeta is a stellar producer of wines and olive oils in Sicily. They produce a few different grapes from different areas in Sicily. I really intend on going to this vineyard this year. It’s truly unbelievable.

The bartender told me that Planeta produced olive oils, which I didn't know, and he very nicely offered to let me try some that he had bought personally, as In Vino doesn't serve it. It is luscious; green but light and very fresh. I don't know of any stores that sell it, but I will seek it out, even if I have to buy a case.